Feature: Buyer’s guide to the Omega Seamaster
The Seamaster is Omega’s flagship model, an accolade it shares with the iconic Speedmaster. Famously adopted by James Bond, its appearance in every film in the franchise since 1995 has further boosted its appeal, not to mention visibility. It’s also Omega’s most sprawling collection with a dizzying array of variants—which is why we’ve put together an indispensable guide that’ll help you get to grips with this legendary dive watch.
A brief history
Unlike some luxury watch brands, who showed little interest in water-resistant watches until the latter half of the 20th century, Omega’s dive-watch credentials stretch all the way back to 1932. This was the year Omega patented an innovative sliding case design to protect the watch from water. The watch simply slid into a larger case that was sealed shut with a locking lever.
The Omega Marine pre-dated the Seamaster as the brand's first "dive" watch. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Effective as it was at keeping out water, the Omega Marine, as it was called, wasn’t the most practical design. To get to the crown, the inner case had to be removed from its waterproof outer case, meaning that if this manual-wind watch suddenly ran out of power mid-dive you would have to resurface to wind it up again.
Though the Marine proved relatively popular, Omega’s rivals Rolex had already nailed the first commercially successful waterproof watch a few years earlier with the Oyster, going on to pair this with its automatic “perpetual” movement. Conveniently, this meant the watch didn’t even have to be wound by hand.
Perhaps this is why Omega seems to have taken a step back from the dive-watch genre, not launching a designated water-resistant watch—the very first Seamaster model—until 1948. This simple, time-only watch, was based on a model made for the British military during World War II, winning acclaim for its remarkable durability and legible design.
An early 1950s Seamaster, before the collection became truly diveworthy
The Seamaster quickly became a mainstay in the Omega line-up, and it wasn’t long before it was revamped to compete with the new breed of professional dive watches that emerged in the 1950s.
This was the golden era that gave rise to the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and Breitling’s Superocean, among others—watches that capitalised on the craze for scuba-diving, a sport that was gaining in popularity thanks to the invention of the aqualung the previous decade.
These now-iconic models were notable for their rotating bezels, allowing divers to track lapsed time underwater more easily. They also had robust steel cases and bold, luminescent hands and hour markers that helped visibility in murky water. Omega released its own take on this style of watch in the late 1950s with the Seamaster 300, and the modern Seamaster was born.
A reissue of the first-generation Seamaster 300, updated with a co-axial movement
Evolution of the model
Looking back at the very earliest versions of the Seamaster, they barely look seaworthy, let alone capable of accompanying divers to the ocean bed. With slim steel cases, minimalist three-hand dials, automatic movements and often paired with a leather strap, they were certainly tough enough to withstand a host of extreme conditions, from deserts to tropical humidity. But they wouldn’t have passed any stringent water-resistance tests.
An Omega Seamaster newspaper advert from the 1950s
With a rubber O-ring gasket to seal the crown against leaks, they were little more than bath-proof, and newspaper advertisements like the one above claimed they were for “pilots, navigators and sportsmen”, with no mention whatsoever of the professional divers who would go on to wear this collection.
This all changed in 1957 with the Seamaster 300, a name that was slightly misleading as the official testing equipment of the time only measured up to 200 metres. Confusingly, this meant that Omega’s adverts for the watch were not legally allowed to claim the watch was water resistant up to 300 metres as they had no way of substantiating it. In reality, it was more than up to the task.
With the Seamaster 300, not only did Omega finally have its first bonafide dive watch, it paved the way for a particularly productive era of professional-standard water-resistant watches for the brand.
A little over a decade later it introduced to the Seamaster family the legendary Professional 600—aka the Ploprof—designed in collaboration with the Comex diving agency for saturation diving.
The highly distinctive Seamaster Ploprof. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Water resistant to 600 metres, it was an ungainly looking hunk of steel that nonetheless performed well and—unlike the rival Rolex Sea-Dweller—didn’t need an escape valve on the case band to release built-up helium, the pressure of which can force a crystal to pop off like a champagne cork.
This was because the Ploprof’s case was constructed in a way that didn’t let in helium in the first place. Notably the Ploprof also featured a protrusion to the case that encompassed a button that had to be pressed before you could rotate the bezel, making it the most distinctive Seamaster model ever. Indeed, the Ploprof is the very definition of a cult watch.
The more conventional-looking Seamaster 1000—nicknamed "The Grand"—followed it in 1971, smashing the Ploprof’s water resistance with a huge 1000 metres rating, Omega’s highest at the time.
The original Ploprof was followed by the Seamaster 1000. Image courtesy of Bonhams
These chunky dive watches epitomised Omega’s Seamaster series in the 1970s, but by the 1980s the collection was starting to lack definition, which wasn’t helped by the quartz crisis. Omega appeared unsure of what direction to take this stalwart of the brand.
Determined not to get left behind, Omega launched a few battery-powered Seamaster models that jumped on the “Gerald Genta” bandwagon (given how prolific Genta was, he might have even designed them himself). Models like this two-tone version with an integrated bracelet and port-hole-style bezel looked nothing like the previous generation of Seamasters and, aesthetically at least, owed more to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
The Seamaster went through a "Gerald Genta" phase in the 1980s. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Other quartz models were made from a combination of gold and titanium and bore more than a passing resemblance to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, like this dressy Seamaster Titane from the early 1980s.
This 1980s two-tone Seamaster seems to have forgot it was meant to be a dive watch. Image courtesy of Bonhams
There’s no getting around the fact that these versions were only marginally more seaworthy than a carriage clock, and looked more at home paired with a Savile Row suit than a wet-suit.
It wasn’t until the early 1990s that the Seamaster started looking like a proper robust tool watch again. Models like this one below came with 300 metres water resistance, a unidirectional bezel and a helium escape valve.
The Seamaster re-established its dive watch credentials in the 1990s
With its aquatic credentials re-established, it meant that the brand was perfectly positioned to muscle in on the James Bond franchise, striking a megabucks product-placement deal for cinema’s most iconic spy to wear the Seamaster (more of which later).
Since then, the Seamaster family has branched out even further, spawning sub-collections within sub-collections. But there is some method to Omega’s madness. As hugely varied as the Seamaster line is, you won’t find any integrated bracelets or Gerald Genta-style cases. The modern Seamaster is sporty, reliable and tough, and is equipped with practical functions like chronographs, helium escape valves and GMT complications.
It’s also gone extreme with models like the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep, a watch that’s capable of descending to depths of over 6,000 metres. Yet there’s also room for show-stopping glamour, as with the Aqua Terra line.
Along the journey, we’ve also seen a number of unconventional models that have been ocean-themed without being typical dive watches. These include models with regatta timing functions for yacht races, and the unusual Seamaster Apnea, a watch that pays tribute to the late record-breaking free diver Jacques Mayol. It’s essentially a chronograph designed specifically to time free dives of up to 14 minutes.
One of the more unusual Seamasters is the Apnea chronograph. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Omega has never been afraid to use the Seamaster collection as a vehicle for experimentation, be that in terms of complications, colours, or materials.
Current Omega Seamaster models
The current Seamaster collection is as sprawling and diverse as it's ever been, but Omega has made it slightly more comprehensible by splitting it into these four sub-categories:
Aqua Terra
Diver
Planet Ocean
Heritage
The Aqua Terra is where you’ll find the more luxurious models in the Seamaster collection—some of which are in 18k gold and embellished with gems, while the Diver series is more pared-down and practical. It’s here you’ll find the more familiar-looking models associated with James Bond.
The Aqua Terra is the dressy member of the Seamaster family
Meanwhile, the Planet Ocean series, introduced in 2005, is characterised by its larger cases, bold colours and 600 metre water resistance—twice that of a contemporary Rolex Submariner. The Planet Ocean Ultra Deep goes even further, offering a staggering 6,000 metres water resistance.
In the Planet Ocean series you'll find the largest, most water resistant Seamasters
Lastly, there are the Heritage Models, reissues of past classics. This is where you’ll find the modern iteration of the Ploprof (its water resistance now considerably higher at 1,200m), the Seamaster 300 reissue of the 1957 model and even the Railmaster.
Admittedly, the latter doesn’t sound like a watch equipped for the ocean. But it does boast a perfectly adequate 150 metres water resistance and illustrates the sheer breadth of the Seamaster range (we weren't joking when we said it was "sprawling").
Modern movements
All contemporary Seamasters now come with a movement featuring a co-axial escapement.
Invented by celebrated English watchmaker George Daniels with the aim of reducing stress on the moving parts, Omega began using this technology in its watches in 1999 after buying the rights in the early 1990s.
The co-axial escapement was introduced to the Seamaster collection in 2006
The first Seamaster was fitted with this new movement in 2006—the same year Daniel Craig starred in his first Bond film—and although this mechanism is usually paired with an automatic movement, there are exceptions, such as the manual-wind movement used in the Aqua Terra Ultra Light, a titanium model with a titanium movement, making it the brand’s lightest ever sports watch.
James Bond editions
Avid James Bond fans will know that in the original novels, written by Ian Fleming, Bond wears a Rolex—although the exact model is never specified. In the first film, Dr. No (1962), it was a Submariner—reference 6538—that graced actor Sean Connery’s wrist. Even Seiko has made a few cameos. Notably in 1981 film, For Your Eyes Only, in which Roger Moore modelled the distinctive Seiko 7549-7009 ‘Golden Tuna’ 600m Professional Quartz Diver.
In 1995 things changed when Pierce Brosnan starred in GoldenEye with a classic Omega Seamaster on his wrist—albeit a no-frills quartz model.
The first James Bond Omega, worn by Pierce Brosnan
It signalled the start of a new era and partnership between the watchmaker and film franchise—one that’s still going strong today.
Interestingly, this model marked the last time a quartz watch featured in these films, too. Omega pulled out all the stops for 2015 film Spectre, when it produced a special timepiece exclusively for the movie for the first time. Shortly after, the watchmaker unveiled a limited edition Spectre Seamaster 300 to the public. The classic Seamaster 300 isn’t all Bond wears, though. In both Spectre and 2012 blockbuster Skyfall, he can be seen wearing the smart Aqua Terra. Whereas in Casino Royale (2006), Quantum of Solace (2008) and Skyfall, he wears a sporty Planet Ocean. Bond clearly likes to change watches as much as his women.
Daniel Craig bowed out of the Bond franchise wearing this titanium Seamaster
The release of 2021 film No Time to Die welcomed the titanium Seamaster 300m 007 Edition. Fans of the franchise can get their hands on this special-edition timepiece with its retro-looking brown “tropical” dial on either a matching titanium Milanese mesh bracelet (pictured above) or a casual striped NATO-style strap.
What Omega will create for the next 007 instalment and who will be wearing it now that Daniel Craig has stepped down from his role as Bond remain under wraps for now.
One thing's for sure, Omega are getting their money's worth!
Notable vintage models
If you’re seeking a classic vintage no-frills watch that you have no intention of wearing while swimming, it’s hard to beat an early Seamaster from the 1950s or 1960s. There are countless variations on the pre-owned market, but be wary of “frankenwatches”—watches that are made up of unoriginal parts. Refinished or repainted dials are common with old Omega watches, and hands and crowns have often been replaced—although not everyone is bothered by this.
Among the more affordable and widely available vintage models is the Seamaster Cosmic, a time-only or time-and-date watch made throughout the 1960s and early 1970s. These manual-wind models come in a monobloc C-shaped steel case and can be picked up for less than £1k.
Some custom-designed versions of the early Seamaster 300 were British military issue and are especially collectable if they have a Ministry of Defence serial number engraved on the reverse. This one from circa 1970 was sold at a Phillips auction in 2020 for a six-figure sum.
A Seamaster 300 made for the British Royal Navy. Image courtesy of Phillips
Vintage Ploprofs are also popular, even though you can now get contemporary versions that are aesthetically very similar to the originals.
Also desirable are original versions of that first-generation Seamaster 300 from the late 1950s, reference CK2913-3, with its broad-arrow hour hand and nicely aged Bakelite bezel.
How much is an Omega Seamaster?
The current Omega Seamaster price range is book-ended by a stainless-steel Seamaster 300M costing £5,280 brand-new and a 60th anniversary James Bond edition in white gold with a diamond bezel costing a staggering £149k—a vast spectrum.
The top-tier Seamaster in white gold with diamond bezel
Between these two price points you'll find the Aqua Terra range, costing between £3.1k and £69.5k, while the Planet Ocean line ranges between £6.3k and £33.7k. Prices are obviously heavily dependent on the functions of the watch and the material it's made out of.
Most time-and-date Diver 300M models in steel can be purchased for less than £8k, although you can expect to pay around a third less on the pre-owned market.
With literally hundreds of discontinued Seamaster models around, as well as all the variations in the current line up, it's no wonder that this long-running collection both delights and confounds collectors in equal measure. But it can't be bettered for choice.
We hope this guide has helped you hone in on a few favourites.
